I’m not a food critic – it’s an art where I prefer eating rather than writing – but this is one restaurant I must tell you about: Aposto KL.
Tucked away in a quiet corner in Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Aposto is KL’s latest modern Italian restaurant. This trendy, up-and-coming food haunt serves classic Italian recipes with a delectable twist, as Chef Patron Chu Wei Sin’s re-imagines Italian staples, sprinkling influences from his affair with fine-dining, Japanese and Western culinary experience, and touches of his Malaysian upbringing.
Chef Chu is my brother. For more than 10 years, I’ve watched him slave over the hob cooking in someone else’s kitchen while he dreams up his very own. On March 29, as he turns 37, Chef Chu finally opened the doors of Aposto.
Through the restaurant’s theatrical open kitchen, I watch my brother cook over the stove. He maneuvers the many bottles of sauces, spices and oils intuitively like a pilot at the cockpit controls, confidently picking up this concoction and then that, sprinkling a dash of this and a spoonful of that, playing pastor to a marriage of colours, flavours, textures and aroma that is signature in every dish at Aposto. This time, in his very own kitchen, a dream come true even when the pandemic threw an obstacle course of challenges at him.
I can wax lyrical about Aposto’s sophisticated and romantic interior; the creative and memorable food journey; the I-can’t-stop-sipping-this crafted mocktails and delightful service… but would you believe me? Perhaps I should let the photos, and the food do the convincing.
must-try dishes at Aposto kl
Scallop Carpaccio with salted kelp, seaweed & passion fruit vinaigrette (RM88)
This appetiser captures a certain umami found only in fresh seafood, yet at the same time it surprises the palette with a bright and refreshing passion fruit dressing. The pickled pumpkin and kelp adds a nice crunch that balances the softness of the scallop.
Saba On Toast with ciabatta, feta & olives (RM34)
Crispy toasted Italian white bread, creamy feta cheese, flaky grilled mackerel topped with chopped olives and a hint of honey; this is bruschetta reimagined. It’s savoury and hearty, sweet and salty. If you grew up on tuna and toast like my brothers and I did, this is a glammed up version of your childhood favourite that will leave you wanting for more. But be careful not to fill up on toast, the best is yet to come.
That is a whole Boston lobster. Deshelled, tender, sweet. Every bite of that creamy risotto infused with lobster stock is delightfully interrupted by a fresh edamame bite. I would have more to say about this dish if I managed to taste more than one bite. But this was so good that it disappeared as soon as it reached my parent’s side of the table. Cinaman approved. I still remember that seafood-y sweet taste of the lobster though, it haunts me in my dreams, asking for more.
hand-made pastas, cooked to order
16-Hour Braised Duck Pasta with hand-cut maltagliati, duck ragù & pumpkin (RM56). Aka “badly cut” pasta with duck meat sauce.
Here’s one for the pasta lovers! Aposto’s pastas deserve a special mention because each and every strand is hand-made fresh daily from the flour up. It’s their pride and joy, and it shows in the tenderness of the noodles, none of that tough or sticky texture you get from boxed pastas.
Scallops & Beetroot Pasta with hand-cut tagliatelle, beets & oyster mushrooms (RM98).
Tagliatelle pasta are long-flat ribbons slightly wider than fettuccine. The creamy sauce hugs the pastas lovingly, flavouring every strand and when tossed with Chef Chu’s concoction of unexpected ingredients, it elevates a familiar pasta dish into a journey of flavours. It’s creative, its memorable, it’s a complex medley of flavours and god damn delicious.
Tiramisu with mascarpone cream & coffee meringues (RM36).
Authentic tiramisus are rare in KL so this is a decadent gem. Encased in a crunchy wafer are layers of light mascarpone cream cheese and soft ladyfingers (sponge cake biscuits shaped like a lady’s fingers) seeping in aromatic coffee. It’s complemented with blobs of dark chocolate cream and edible flowers that adds a depth of flavours. It’s satisfying, both the crunch when your spoon cracks the wafer, and the melt in your mouth coffee-chocolate goodness.
Honey Panna Cotta with blackberry, white wine jelly & honeycomb (RM34).
Mum loved this but couldn’t understand what it was until we described it as “Italian tau fu fa”. The panna cotta itself is jiggly, custardy and not too sweet. A light sweetness comes from a drizzle of Hungarian acacia honey and fun honey comb chucks, the blackberries adds a tinge of sourness and the white wine jelly contributes a floral aroma to round up the flavours. If you’re looking for a light dessert to end the meal, this is delightful. For something indulgent, Aposto’s tiramisu hits the spot.
Made for sharing
Aposto dishes are made for sharing, because their ethos is human connection. True to his Malaysian foodie upbringing, Chef Chu is inspired by how food is a catalyst to connect people.
Chef Chu said: “The dining table is where strangers become friends. That is the magic of food… Aposto is about food and human connection. I want to create a special place where family, friends and partners can deepen their bonds over the medium of delicious food and drinks.”
Delicious food and drinks, checked. Memorable evening, checked. I watched my brother poured his heart and soul into creating his menu, and it is evident in every dish.
Congratulations, ko! I am proud and excited for you. You’ve come a long way since making weird chocolate-filled onde-onde in mum’s kitchen… and forcing me to eat them. But I will have more of that lobster, please.
About the chef
About Aposto KL
- Hours: Tuesday – Sunday; 5.30pm – 11.00pm
- Aposto KL’s menu and prices here
- Address : 38, Lorong Rahim Kajai 14, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000, Kuala Lumpur
- Contact: 010-2824990
- Online reservations: https://www.tableapp.com/partner/aposto-ttdi#/
- Aposto is pork-free. They serve beer on tap, an impressive wines list, and one-of-a -kind crafted drinks with cheeky names like “Lychee something something”